When I Booked This Trip To The Snow.
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When the sky opened: meters of powder, closed lifts, and a week of unexpected magic in Val Thorens
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I never imagined that this would be the exact week the sky would open endlessly. Snow kept falling. Soft, thick, generous snow. The kind that turns the world quiet. The kind that makes everything feel wrapped in magic.
It was unbelievably beautiful. Truly magical. And also unbelievably challenging to ski. At least for my fifty year old knees.
After two winters of standing in four degree slushy snow that felt more like wet porridge than a winter dream, we decided to go higher. If we wanted snow certainty, we would choose altitude. So we booked Val Thorens, high up in the French Alps at 2,300 meters. The highest ski resort in Europe. And part of Les Trois Vallées, the largest connected ski area in the world, with more than 600 kilometers of slopes and around 160 ski lifts linking different valleys and villages together.
We thought we would be certain of snow.
Well. We got snow.
Meters of fresh powder every morning. The kind that makes you laugh and curse at the same time. The kind that makes skiing feel like floating through clouds, until your legs gently remind you that they have already lived half a century.
And yet, nature also reminded us who is in charge.
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There’s a new print in town. Yes, a new animal print.
Because of the extreme snowfall and avalanche risk, many of the ski lifts were closed for most of the week. Entire connections between valleys were temporarily shut down. At first it felt disappointing. We had access to the largest ski area in the world, and suddenly parts of it were unreachable.
But slowly something shifted.
Instead of chasing kilometers, we stayed present. We skied what was open. We embraced the deep snow. We laughed more. We rested more. The mountains were not something to conquer that week. They were something to respect.
Val Thorens itself sits proudly above the tree line. It is modern, built for skiers, buzzing with energy. Everything revolves around the mountain. You step outside and you are already on the piste. Skis on. Ready.
And then there was our hotel. Le Val Thorens by Beaumier. Our home for the week.
For French standards, our room felt wonderfully spacious. Warm, inviting, and beautifully renovated in a subtle seventies inspired style. A little retro. A little design. Very tasteful. It felt like a soft landing after long, snowy days.
There is a beautiful indoor pool. A lovely sauna and steam room. And one afternoon I treated myself to the most heavenly massage. The kind that melts tired ski muscles and makes you feel completely cared for.
The hotel makes everything easy. You can rent your skis right there. Buy your ski pass in the hotel. And best of all, it sits directly on the piste. True ski in ski out. No dragging equipment through streets. No hassle. Just step outside and glide away.
On sunny days, the terrace transforms into a small mountain celebration. Music playing. A DJ creating an easy rhythm. Ski boots in the snow. Sunglasses on. A drink in your hand. It feels vibrant and joyful, even when you are no longer twenty five.
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Shop Till You Drop
Boutiques, Vintage, and Hidden Gems
A full Les Trois Vallées ski pass gives access to more than 600 kilometers of slopes and costs around seventy euros per day in high season. Not insignificant. But when you are standing high above the clouds, breathing crisp alpine air, it feels like investing in memories.
Val Thorens has been voted the best ski resort in the world multiple times. And I understand why. The altitude keeps the snow reliable. The scale is impressive. The atmosphere is alive. It is a place where winter truly feels like winter.
This trip reminded me of something important.
We aim higher because we want certainty. Certainty of snow. Certainty of experience. Certainty that we will not be disappointed.
And life answers with abundance.
More snow than expected. More beauty. More challenge. Even closed lifts. Even avalanche warnings. Even tired knees.
But also more presence. More gratitude. More softness.
Yes, skiing in meters of fresh powder at fifty is not always elegant. Yes, my knees had opinions. But there is something powerful about choosing adventure anyway. About laughing when you fall into the softest snow imaginable. About respecting nature instead of fighting it.
Val Thorens gave us everything we asked for.
And more.
And I would go back in a heartbeat.
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Shop Till You Drop
Boutiques, Vintage, and Hidden Gems
My Val Thorens To Do List
If you are dreaming of snow, here are my personal favorites and practical tips.
Best place to stay Le Val Thorens by Beaumier. Ski in ski out. Spacious rooms for French standards. Beautiful seventies inspired renovation. A lovely indoor pool, sauna and steam room. And book a massage. Trust me. You can rent skis and buy your ski pass directly in the hotel which makes everything effortless.
Best slope The runs from Cime Caron are unforgettable on a clear day. The views stretch endlessly across the Alps. If you prefer long cruising runs, ski towards Méribel in Les Trois Vallées and enjoy wide red and blue pistes that feel almost cinematic.
Best café stop on the mountain La Folie Douce for a lively lunch with music and mountain views. For something more relaxed and cosy, Chalet de la Marine is perfect for a warm drink and a proper mountain lunch. I had the most fantastic salad there.
Best après ski La Folie Douce is iconic if you want dancing in ski boots with a DJ and champagne showers energy. If you prefer something more intimate and stylish, the terrace at Le Val Thorens on a sunny afternoon with a DJ and a good glass of wine feels vibrant but still chic.
Best non ski activity Floating in the hotel pool while snow falls outside. Or booking a deep tissue massage after a heavy powder day. You can also try snowshoe hiking if lifts are closed due to avalanche risk. It is peaceful and grounding and lets you experience the mountains in a different way.
Lift pass prices A full Les Trois Vallées pass gives access to more than 600 kilometers of slopes and around 160 lifts. In high season, expect to pay around 70 to 75 euros per day for an adult pass. There are also Val Thorens only passes if you prefer to stay local.
How to get there The nearest airports are Geneva, Lyon and Chambéry. From there it is about a two to three hour transfer by car or shuttle into the mountains. The last stretch is a beautiful, winding road that slowly brings you higher and higher until you arrive above the tree line in a true winter world.
Good to know Val Thorens sits at 2,300 meters, making it the highest ski resort in Europe. The altitude guarantees excellent snow conditions throughout the season. It has been voted Best Ski Resort in the World multiple times, and once you stand there surrounded by endless white peaks, you understand why.
Val Thorens is not just about skiing. It is about feeling small in the best possible way. About choosing adventure at every age. About warm hotel lobbies after cold mountain mornings. About snowflakes on your eyelashes and laughter in deep powder.
And even if some lifts are closed and your knees are not twenty five anymore, the magic is still there.
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